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Cuillin Ridge Traverse and Scrambling
The jewel in the crown of the British Isles' mountaineering routes, 12km long and 4000m of elevation gain.
You need to have some previous experience on grade 2/3 scrambles and be physically fit before booking or attempting this with us.
Location: Isle of Skye, Scotland
Available: May-August
Price: £650 per person
Ratio: 1:2
Length: 5 days
What does this Scrambling on Skye course cover?
A Traverse of the Cuillin and other classic routes like The Inaccessible Pinnacle, Pinnacle Ridge, Clach Glass – Blaven Traverse, The Cioch, Sgur Alasdair, and countless other Munro summits or classic scrambles and rock climbs.
This course is ideal for those wanting to explore mountaineering routes, prepare for Alpine activities or maybe preparing for your own full ridge traverse. We'll aim to cover as much technical terrain as possible and enjoy the best scrambling and climbing routes found in the UK.
We use a five day format to provide better chances of a favourable weather window for a full traverse, time to recuperate and develop skills whilst tackling classics.
Since I started climbing at 15 and first visited Skye shortly after, The Cuillins have been the epitome of British mountaineering, technical, engaging, long and a density of excellent quality routes found nowhere else in the UK. I adore climbing and working on Skye, it's an environment where I get to flex and use all of the skills I've gained in my personal and professional experience.
Traversing the Cuillin
Attempting the full ridge traverse is not to be underestimated it requires, skill at moving over technical terrain, fitness and luck of the weather.
Technical Terrain
The ridge incorporates some sustained grade 2-3 scrambles over and down steep pinnacles and chimneys and climbing upto Severe.
Southern portion summits:
Sgurr Alasdair, Sgurr Thearlaich, Sgurr Mhic Choininch, An Stac, the Inaccessible Pinnacle, Sgurr na Banachdich, Sgurr Thormaiad and Sgurr Ghreadaidh to An Dorus. This section includes the TD Gap (Severe) which can be bypassed at Grade 3, King's Chimney (Vdiff) or Collies Ledge (Mod), the InPin (Mod) and sustained Grade 3 from Sgurr Banachdich to An Dorus.
Northern Portion:
An Dorus to Sgurr a'Mhadaidh, Bidein, Sgurr na Bairnich, An Casteil, Sgurr a'Fionn Choire, Am Bhasteir and finally Sgurr nan Gillean. Notable difficulties are traversing Sgurr a'Mhadaidh Grade 3 to Diff, Bidean (Mod) bypassed by walking, An Casteil (abseil), Naismiths Route (Severe) bypassed at Moderate and West Ridge Sgurr nan Gillean (Mod). Phew!
Weather
Unsuprisingly the weather can make or break a traverse attempt. If wet and windy the trickier portions can become dangerous and highly consequential. The ridge is mostly Gabbro and provides good friction wet or dry, but the Basalt intrusions are very slippy when wet and tend to have poor protection and belays. Weather may dictate the ridge is split into 2 or 3 day sections.
Skill and Tactics
With high fitness, solid background experience and good weather a single day push is feasible in one very long 16hour day. A more pleasant and less rushed tactic is a 2 day traverse with a planned bivouac at An Dorus, with bivvy kit stored at An Dorus. Or over 3 days returning back to the pub and accomodation between sections.
For overnight bivy scenarios, you should be comfortable scrambling with a 10kg pack. As a general rule, being able to carry 10kg in the mountains all day is a good starting point for fitness.
Equipment
We have ample personal specialist equipment like harnesses, helmets, climbing rack and ropes available. You are welcome to use your own equipment, and complete kitlist will be sent out ahead of time.
I cannot unfortunately provide bivvy kit and sleeping bags.
Getting to Skye and where to stay
We'll tackle some of Snowdonia's most classic mountaineering routes, some test pieces on on the East Face of Tryfan and possibly a climbing crag to practice some technical elements.
Further Questions
Email me any questions you might have! Wrapping your head around all things Cuillin is an endeavour.
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Do I need climbing shoes? All routes can be done in boots or approach shoes, climbing shoes are not required.
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What if it's raining and the winds are high? We do a multi-day and retreat strategy taking advantage of favourable weather windows.
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Will there be skill development? Always, teamwork is the key to a fluid day.